!!!Österreichische Küche
Austrian Cuisine: In the canon of international cuisines there is no
such concept as "Austrian Cuisine" but "Viennese Cuisine",
which established itself mainly in the days of the Vienna Congress and
indeed competed with French Cuisine. Viennese Cuisine is, however, not
merely the culinary tradition of the city, it is rather a multi-ethnic
cuisine that reflects influences from all the crownlands of the
monarchy. The following specialities rank among the classics:
consommes with a variety of garnishes, such as "Schoeberln" (savoury
sponge biscuit), "Frittaten" (strips of savoury pancake), "lung
strudel" (Austr. Lungenstrudel, strudel of hashed lights), "liver
dumplings" (Austr. Leberknoedel, dumplings made with minced liver,
minced breadroll, chives and other spices, cooked in broth); "Wiener
Schnitzel" (fried escalope of veal coated with flour, egg and bread
crumbs), boiled beef, such as "Tafelspitz" (boiled round of beef,
favourite meal of Emperor Franz Joseph) and "bone meat" (Austr.
Beinfleisch, boiled ribs of beef) with apple-horseradish sauce (Austr.
Apfelkren) or a sauce of horseradish, minced breadroll and cream
(Austr. Semmelkren), chive sauce (Austr. Schnittlauchsauce) and French
beans in a sour cream and dill sauce (Austr. Dillrahmfisolen), goulash
(Austr. Gulasch, savoury stew of beef, onions and paprika), "Beuschel"
(calf´s heart, lung and sweetbread, finely sliced and cooked in
a savoury sauce), roast pork (Austr. Schweinsbraten, seasoned with
garlic, cumin seeds, salt and black pepper) or smoked pork (Austr.
Geselchtes) with sauerkraut and dumplings, "Bruckfleisch" (stewed
offal of beef), stuffed breast of veal (Austr. gefuellte Kalbsbrust,
with carrot, peas and bread stuffing), "pike nockerl" (Austr.
Hechtnockerln, small, oval-shaped pike dumplings), "ham pasta" (Austr.
Schinkenfleckerln, small, square, flat noodles with roasted ham and
onions), roast chicken (Austr. Brathuhn) and fried chicken (Austr.
Backhuhn, half a breaded and fried chicken). Viennese Patisserie,
which, next to Turkish-Hungarian influences (strudel), reflects mainly
influences from the Bohemian Cuisine, occupies a special position.
Classics of warm desserts are "powidl turnovers" (Austr.
Powidltascherln, boiled potato dough turnovers filled with powidl, a
typical Austrian plum jam), "Emperor's schmarren" (Austr.
Kaiserschmarren, fluffy omelette with raisins, cut into pieces,
browned and topped with icing sugar) "milk-cream-strudel" (Austr.
Millirahmstrudel, oven-baked pastry dough stuffed with a sweet bread,
raisin and cream filling) in vanilla sauce, "yeast dumplings" (Austr.
Germknoedel, yeast dough filled with powidl and topped with vanilla
sauce or melted butter and ground and roasted poppy seeds with sugar)
and apricot dumplings (Austr. Marillenknoedel, apricots coated with
various kinds of dough, boiled and coated with roasted, sweet
breadcrumbs). The art of confectionery also reached perfection in
Vienna, producing such famous cake creations as Sacher cake (chocolate
cake prepared according to the traditional recipe of the Sacher
family, filled and topped with apricot jam and covered with melted
chocolate), Malakoff cake (coffee-flavoured ladyfinger biscuits and
butter cream), Dobos cake (layers of biscuit and chocolate cream),
Linz cake (hazelnut cake with red currant jam), Panama cake (chocolate
cake) and Esterházy cake (layers of hazelnut biscuit and butter
cream), fine pastries such as "Ischler Krapferl" (round hazelnut
biscuits stuck together with jam and topped with chocolate and
almonds), "carnival doughnuts" (Austr. Faschingskrapfen, roundish
pastry made of yeast dough, deep-fried and filled with apricot jam and
topped with icing sugar), "Gugelhupf" cake (various kinds of cake
mixture, baked in a special Gugelhupf baking tin), "Punschkrapferl"
(squares of biscuit with a filling of cake crumbs, rum and chocolate
covered with pink icing), and a variety of bonbons. There are a number
of traditional meals that do not pertain to Viennese Cuisine but are
typical of the various regional cuisines in the Austrian provinces,
such as the Styrian "klachel soup" (Austr. Klachelsuppe, pork broth)
with "Heidensterz" (buckwheat polenta), the Carinthian "cheese
noodles" (Austr. Kasnudeln, ravioli with a herb and cheese filling),
"Salzburger Nockerln" (sweet, fluffy egg souffle), the Upper Austrian
"G´hackknoedel" (potato dumplings filled with cubes of roast and
boiled pork, seasoned with marjoram), the Lower Austrian "Saumaisen"
(minced pork burger), the Burgenland "Halaszle" (Hungarian fish soup
seasoned with paprika), "Tyrolean dumplings" (Austr. Tiroler Knoedel,
bread dumplings with ham and sausage cubes and parsley), and the
Vorarlberg "Knoepfle" or "Spaetzle" (traditional oven-baked pasta with
cheese). International gourmet guides attest Austrian contemporary
cuisine an excellent international standing, cultivated in restaurants
such as Steirereck (Vienna), Obauer (Werfen) or Bacher (Mautern).
\\
Important Austrian cooking books: Kochbuch der Philippine Welser,
around 1545; C. Hagger, Neues Saltzburgisches Kochbuch, 1718;
Graetzerisches Kochbuch, 1795; A. Dorn, Neuestes Universal- oder:
Grosses Wr. Kochbuch, 1827; K. Prato, Die sued-deutsche Kueche, 1858;
O. Hess, Wiener Kueche, 1913.
!Literature
F. Maier-Bruck, Das Grosse Sacher Kochbuch, 1975; idem,
Vom Essen auf dem Lande, 1981; A. Schendl, Wr. Kochbuch im Spiegel der
Zeit, doctoral thesis, Vienna 1960; J. Cachee, Die Hofkueche des
Kaisers, 1985.
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