!!!Kaffeehaus Café
Coffeehouse (Cafe): Originating in Constantinople, the first
coffeehouses in Europe were opened in Venice in 1645, London in 1652,
Marseille and Hamburg in 1671, and Paris in 1671. The first
coffeehouse in Vienna was opened in 1685 by the Greek Johannes Theodat
(Diodato). In 1686, three former scouts active during the 2%%sup nd/%
siege of Vienna by the Turks, among them Georg... Kolschitzky, were
also granted a permit ("Privileg") to open a coffeehouse.
For a long time, Kolschitzky was erroneously believed to be the
founder of the Viennese coffeehouse tradition. In 1736, in addition to
other so-called "Hofbefreite" (persons granted the imperial
privilege of taxation exemption for 20 years), there were 19 bourgeois
coffeehouses as well as itinerant "Wasserbrenner"
(distillers), who, in addition to distilling Rosolio (a spiced
liqueur), also roasted and served coffee. In contrast to the simple
taverns, the bourgeois coffeehouses (the first was opened by Isaak de
Luca in 1697) were more comfortable and offered better service,
including, from 1703 onward, the first regularly published newspapers
and public billiards. Because of this, the Viennese coffeehouse soon
became a social institution. In 1750, the coffeehouse proprietor
Gianni Tarroni was the first to be granted permission to set up tables
and chairs outdoors in front of his coffeehouse on Graben in the city
centre in summer. The expression "Schanigarten", used to
describe tables and chairs set up outside a coffeehouse or restaurant,
derives from "Giannis Garten" ("Gianni's garden").
In 1788, M. Wiegand was the first to engage musicians for his Cafe
Bellevue at Kaerntnertor ("Konzertcafe"). The heyday of the
Viennese coffeehouse was the Biedermeier period; proprietors began to
furnish their coffeehouses luxuriously with mirrors, chandeliers,
plush, and silver tableware (for which Neuner's "Silbernes
Kaffeehaus" in Spiegelgasse was famous). The coffeehouse had
become the focus of politics and society, art and literature
("Literatencafes"). It also became a favourite meeting place
both for business as well as for private and social get-togethers.
People went to coffeehouses to talk, to read (Austrian and foreign
newspapers and periodicals), or to play games (billiards, chess,
cards). Around 1870 the coffeehouses in the "Nobelprater"
along the Prater Hauptallee became fashionable. Other famous
coffeehouses were the Cafe Dommayer (established in 1787), the Dobner
(1796), the Cafe Volksgarten (1818), the Casa Piccola (1830), the
Griensteidl (1847), the Cafe Central (1860), the Landtmann (1873), the
Cafe Museum (1899), the Prueckel (1903), and the Hawelka (1938). The
glass of water that was served with every type of coffee used to be
refilled without the waiter's being asked. Numerous varieties of
coffee are served, the names of which depend on their size and the way
milk or cream is used in their preparation: "klein" (small),
"gross" (large), "verlaengert" (a
"small" coffee extended to "large" size with
water), or "kurz" (stronger than the usual), each of which
can be black or "brown" ("ein Brauner" = with
milk); Melange (with cream), which can be prepared either "mehr
licht" (lighter, with more cream) or "mehr dunkel"
(darker, with less), "Schale Braun" (a large
"Brauner") or "Schale Gold" (a large
"Brauner" with more milk than usual), "Kapuziner"
(with milk and whipped cream), "Franziskaner" (light Melange
with whipped cream and chocolate sprinkles); "g"spritzt"
(with rum, also called "Fiaker", or cognac), and "der
Maria Theresia", which has orange liqueur in it;
"Einspaenner" is a mocha in a glass with whipped cream on
top, and a Melange with eggyolk in it is called
"Kaisermelange". After 1950, many coffeehouses closed down,
but around 1990 there was a revival of the coffeehouse culture. In
1994 Vienna had 1156 coffeehouses and "Cafe-Restaurants",
984 espresso bars, 222 Cafe-Konditorei establishments, and 89 stand-up
coffee bars.
!Literature
G. Gugitz, Das Wiener Kaffeehaus, 1940; H. Singer, Im
Wiener Kaffeehaus, 1959; G. Oberzill, Ins Kaffeehaus, 1983; C.
Brandstaetter and W. J. Schweiger, Das Wiener Kaffeehaus, 1986;
Das Wiener Cafe, exhibition catalogue of the Jacobs Suchard Museum,
1989; H. Veigl, Wiener Kaffeehaeuser - frueher, 1989; B. Sinhuber, Zu
Gast im alten Wien, 1989; T. Martinek, Kaffeehaeuser in Wien, 1990.
Oesterreichisches Cafe & Konditorei Journal, monthly magazine of the
Vienna coffeehouse association.
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