!!!Volcano Plosky Tolbachik

by members of the [AirPano Team|Geography/About/Consortium/AirPano,_Team] that is a member of the [global-geography Consortium|Geography/About/Consortium]. \\

24 December 2012

with kind permission of [AirPano|http://www.AirPano.com]

Air Pano's relationship with volcanoes and mountains is complicated.

When Sergey Semenov and I went to Iceland in 2010 to photograph the
eruption of Eyjafjallajökull, instead of rivers of lava we found clouds
of steam.

In 2011 Dima Moiseyenko was in Iceland on the fourth day of the
Grímsvötn volcano eruption, but by that time a 20km-high tower of smoke
had turned into a puff.

In 2012 strong winds stopped Dima a few kilometers away from Mount
Everest.

This explains why, after reading Sergey Gorshkov's first report about
the eruption of our native Plosky (Flat) Tolbachik in Kamchatka, we
acted immediately.

We were scheduled to photograph hotels in Dubai in a few days, so we
lost a fortune on last minute ticket cancellations. Then we went online
looking for help on the Kamchatka local forum; in just 30 minutes we
received information about two local helicopter companies. Although it
was 3 in the morning in Moscow, we called these companies right away —
it was already midday in Kamchatka. In the morning Dima and Stas did
some quick shopping for clothing and accessories, and were on the
afternoon flight to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatski. It is interesting that
3-day trip to Kamchatka is more expensive than a weeklong 5-star
vacation in Dubai. Well, there are no volcanoes in Dubai :)

Please note, that the Tolbachik volcano eruption is classified as an
unconventional fissure eruption. Fissure eruptions are known fo emitting
greatvolume of lava. They are also called "touristic" eruptions for
relatively low level of danger and photogenic beauty of flowing rivers
of lava. Weather permitting, one can fly up close to a volcanic crater
or hover right above a lava stream. We knew it all in theory, but in
reality we kept our fingers crossed for a good weather.

And now I give you Stas Sedov, who personally participated in this
adventure.

Oleg Gaponyuk

[{Image src='01_Eruption of Volcano Plosky Tolbachik Kamchatka, Russia, 2012.jpg' caption='Eruption of Volcano Plosky Tolbachik Kamchatka, Russia, 2012' alt='' width='900' popup='false' height='641'}]

It was only yesterday when we were getting ready for a trip to Dubai to
shoot the highest skyscraper in the world. And, one day later, instead
of +30°C (86°F) heat, we were looking at smoking volcanoes of Kamchatka
and it was -16°C (3°F) outside.

The helicopter to Tolbachick volcano in Esso village is located 500 km
away from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsk. 500 kilometers of rough paved and
unpaved roads which I vaguely remember due to severe jetlag and a huge
time difference with with Moscow. When we finally reached our hotel
there was no time for rest: assembling and testing our equipment took
half of the night. We woke before sunrise after a short nap and found
our crew warming up the frozen Mi-8, a twin-turbine transport
helicopter, preparing it for take off. It was -19°C (-2°F) outside.

The flight from Esso to Tolbachik takes about 30 minutes. Soon we see
the front of lava stream in our helicopter windows... There is smoke,
but no open fire — the forest is not burning. We hover, open hatches and
start shooting. The volcano in front of us is covered with clouds and
smoke. We decide to move up the lava flow. Finally there are the first
red hot lava streams underneath us! We slow down the helicopter and
shoot several spherical panoramas. We are overwhelmed — we finally saw
IT!

Going higher is impossible due to heavy clouds, and so our crew starts
looking for a landing spot on the slope. Flying over a cold lava stream
we see a group of tourists leisurely walking along its side. Some of
them are dressed rather interesting. For example, I see a shining silver
jumpsuit resembling the heat-resistant outfits of firefighters. There is
another helicopter parked on a snowfield. We land a bit higher up the
slope and go to check out lava stream from the ground.

[{Image src='02_Eruption from the ground.jpg' caption='Eruption from the ground' alt='' width='900' popup='false' height='597'}]

It is freezing cold down here, and a strong wind doesn't make it feel
better. We reach the lava stream: side rocks are warm to the touch.
However, after walking 50 meters into the lava field we notice red glow
of lava from underneath the rocks. The outside temperature increases
very fast; everybody is hot. In a few minutes we realize that there is
no way to safely get to moving lava from where we were. By the time we
reached the next hill, the soles of our boots were smoking. We decide
not to go into the hell mouth.

[{Image src='03_Eruption from the ground.jpg' caption='Eruption from the ground' alt='' width='900' popup='false' height='601'}]

We take rest on the slope waiting for a better weather. According to our
pilots, the sky usually clears out by evening. However, today it only
gets worse. Clouds become heavier, and the wind stronger. Shooting from
RC helicopter in such weather conditions would be a waste of our
equipment. We decide to do a test flight towards the lava stream, and
then look for a new landing spot closer to the cone of the active
volcano.

[{Image src='04_Front of lava flow.jpg' caption='Front of lava flow' alt='' width='900' popup='false' height='601'}]

We take off in a thick fog or smoke. Suddenly a river of fire opens
right in front of us! Dima and I realize that all the footage we shot
before this moment is worthless compared to the new picture. We open the
hatches and windows and start shooting. We change our position and
height; we ask the captain to go lower to the center of the lava stream.
Air in the helicopter cabin gets very hot.

I have to give credits to our crew and especially to our captain,
Dmitry. At times we hovered over the hot lava very low. Ascending flows
of hot air threw the helicopter side to side like a feather, but Dmitry
held it over the spot as if it was tied to an invisible anchor. Every
time I looked out of the window with my camera it felt like I was
sticking my head into a hot oven. Everyone was perspiring from
unbearable heat and concentration.

Despite of our efforts, we could not reach the volcanic cone at this
time because clouds around the volcano did not lift by the end of the
day. Instead, our helicopter landed near Sergey Gorshkov's camp. The
spot offered a nice view of the hot lava flow. We spent almost an hour
watching the unstoppable force of nature in fascination while waiting
for the evening light. Imagine standing next to a mountain of rocks,
which is 5-10 meters high, hundreds of meters wide, and tens of
kilometers long. Imagine this huge mountain moving in front of your eyes
— slowly, but fast enough for you to see, rustling loudly at the same
time. It feels unreal and your mind refuses to believe that it's really
happening...

[{Image src='05_Eruption of Volcano Plosky Tolbachik Kamchatka, Russia, 2012.jpg' caption='Eruption of Volcano Plosky Tolbachik Kamchatka, Russia, 2012' alt='' width='900' popup='false' height='602'}]

The sunset clouds lit up with a fantastic purple hue. Our Mi-8
immediately took off so we could photograph one of the most beautiful
panoramas of our trip over the lava flow. The sun disappeared over the
horizon, and we returned to our base in Esso at dusk.

The following morning we decided to fly out before the sunrise. However,
the Mi-8 cabin heater messed up our plans. Yesterday night it was
malfunctioning, but airport mechanics managed to fix it. Unfortunately,
after a freezing night, it gave up completely. It is -25°C (-13°F)
outside, and while the mechanics are unsuccessfully trying to revive the
heater, we ask our captain if it is possible to fly without it. Dmitry
says that it is possible, but we will be really cold up in the
mountains. It is up to us. It didn't take us long to make a decision: we
are going, there would be no second chance for good weather.

As we got closer to Tolbachik, we realize how incredibly lucky we were!
The slopes of the volcano were clear of clouds; the visibility was
perfect up to the horizon. The morning sun lit up the plume of smoke
from the active volcanic cone. We are going straight to the cone; flying
around it; and — here it is! Finally we see from a very short distance a
fountain of lava in the volcanic cone; a fantastic, unforgettable sight!
We shoot spherical panoramas before our helicopter lands about 1
kilometer away from the cone.

It is time to check the perimeter. The outside temperature dropped even
more because of strong winds (10-15 m/sec). We reach an old lava stream;
it is scary to go further — the soil under our feet is hot. In a
photograph, patches of white snow make the surface look cold. In
reality, you can warm up frozen camera batteries under the top layer of
soil, and if you dig a little deeper, the soles of your boots will start
to melt. Cracks are everywhere; steam and gas flow out of the ground.
The volcanic cone is right in front of us: every few seconds it explodes
with a great roar, spitting hot lava 200 meters high. It is hypnotizing,
but we have to work. I go back to Mi-8 to collect our RC helicopter.

[{Image src='06_Eruption of Volcano Plosky Tolbachik Kamchatka, Russia, 2012.jpg' caption='Eruption of Volcano Plosky Tolbachik Kamchatka, Russia, 2012' alt='' width='900' popup='false' height='548'}]

I put on my heaviest clothing and return to our group. With a ski mask
on my face and ski gloves on my hands, I crawl up to the snowfield. I
feel like Neil Armstrong, making first steps on the Moon.

Together with Dima Moiseyenko we prepare the RC helicopter for take off.
What will come out of it? We don't know. The current weather condition
is way beyond our equipment's capacity. The lowest temperature in which
I piloted the helicopter before was -15°C (5°F) with no wind. And now we
are at about 1500 meters altitude, and the atmospheric temperature is
-31°C (-24°F) with rather strong wind.

We check and double-check everything: camera works fine, video
transmitter works fine. I start the engines — they don't respond; they
are probably frozen. I re-start the helicopter several times — no luck.
We cannot fly!

It is unsettling, but not fatal: we always have a spare helicopter for
cases exactly like this. I leave Dima to photograph the volcanic cone
and walk back to Mi-8 to assemble our second ‘copter'. It is -25°C
(-13°F) inside the cabin, all water bottles are frozen solid, but I
don't feel the cold. The spare helicopter is assembled in about half an
hour, and I return to our group on the lava field.

We go over pre-flight check once again. I start the engines — they don't
respond again! One more try and... start! The helicopter is unstable,
but I take a risk, and it slowly ascends. We are up in the air, and
begin shooting a spherical panorama. Next to me is Dima, counting frames
and timing the flight. Time to time strong gusts of wind dangerously
throw the helicopter, but I manage to keep it in a relatively stable
position. Finally the photo session is over; I bring the helicopter down
and catch it. My hands and legs are slightly shaking of an adrenalin
charge.

Dima and I flip through images — it looks like we were too far away. We
decide to get closer to the cone. We carefully walk on a side of the
lava field, scared to go further in — cracks are everywhere. Finally
voice of reason tells us to stop and let the machines continue from this
point. One more pre-flight check; we take off again and begin
photographing the volcanic cone from different angles. The helicopter
returns and we see that this session was much better. Dima says: "Let's
try to fly up to the very cone! We have already got good footage,
perhaps we'll be lucky again." We replace a flash card in the camera and
let our helicopter fly. I send it straight to the cone, but suddenly
something terrible happens — our ‘bird' falls on the lava field and
crashes. Most likely its battery gave up in the cold, or, perhaps, one
of the engine controllers failed. There was no time for analyzing —
forgetting our safety precautions, we ran to rescue what was left of the
equipment.

[{Image src='07_Lava.jpg' caption='Lava' alt='' width='900' popup='false' height='601'}]

Surprisingly, I was not upset by this incident — perhaps, my system was
still filled with adrenalin: we had to try flying in impossible weather
conditions, and we did it! Yes, the RC helicopter crashed, but it had
enough time to shoot several unique spherical panoramas much closer than
we could have ever done from a big helicopter.

We disassembled and packed our RC helicopters waiting for the evening
light. It is still 40 minutes till the sunset, and together with the
Mi-8 crew we go to the lava field to photograph fountains of lava inside
the volcanic cone. It looks like the volcano got much more active by the
end of the day. In spite of the freezing cold and strong wind we were
captivated by its beauty and almost lost a track of time. With a great
effort we turn away from watching the volcano and run back to the
helicopter.

Engines start; the helicopter takes off; we habitually open hatches and
start working. As if the volcano decided to thank us for our patience
and stamina — double fountains of hot lava shoot up several meters high
for the last 30 minutes. This was one of the most memorable and
beautiful moments of our flight.

We returned to our base in Esso in the dark — tired, freezing, but very
happy with the result. We did it! We photographed our first active
volcano!

[{Image src='08_Eruption of Volcano Plosky Tolbachik Kamchatka, Russia, 2012.jpg' caption='Eruption of Volcano Plosky Tolbachik Kamchatka, Russia, 2012' alt='' width='900' popup='false' height='601'}]

At the end, I would like to thank the people who made this trip possible
and helped us achieve such impressive results:

Crew of the Mi-8 helicopter of Kamchatski airlines, and especially their
captain, Dmitry Zadirey.

Photogapher Sergey Gorshkov.

Photogapher Denis Budkov who kindly allowed to use his photos in this
article.

Volcanologists: Olga Girina and Dmitry Melnikov, who made detailed
descriptions of locations and objects that you can see on the panoramas.

And all concerned people from the First Kamchatka Forum, who helped us
with advice and contact information.

We also would like to ive you some useful facts about Tolbachik Volcano:

Tolbachik Volcano (active Plosky Tolbachik (3085 m) and extinct Ostry
Tolbachik (3682 m)) is the largest volcanic center of the southwestern
sector of the Klyuchevskaya volcanic group.

About 10 000 years ago (in the Early Holocene), at the summit of Plosky
Tolbachik was formed the first caldera some 3 km in diameter and also a
regional zone of cinder cones northeast and southwest of the volcano
resembling rifts Hawaiian volcanoes.

South zone extends about 45-50 km to the volcano Nikolka, and is called
Tolbachinsky Dol. About 80% of the eruptive centers in the form of
multitude fissures and chains of cinder cones concentrated along the
center zone of Dol in a narrow (3-4 km) strip.

It is reliable known for two eruptions in Tolbachinsky Dol: 1941 and
1975-1976.

First took place on 7-14 May, 1941. The week of the eruption there were
formed: the cinder cone about 200 m in height, 0.07 km3 of pyroclastics;
lava flow 5 km in length, 0.03 km3 of lava.

Second eruption lasted from July 6, 1975 to December 10, 1976. It was
predicted by P.I. Tokarev, a week before the event (the first in the
world). This allowed volcanologists to observe in detail the beginning
of the fissure eruption. The 1.5 years of the eruption there were
formed: 8 cinder cones about 300 m in height, about 1.0 km3 of
pyroclastics; lava flow 9.5 km in length, 1.2 km3 of lava.

The new fissure eruption on Tolbachinsky Dol began on November 27, 2012,
and continuing at present. From November 27 until December 05, the area
of lava flows was about 20 km2. The volume of eruptive material
(pyroclastics and lava) at December 20, 2012, is estimated at 1.0 km3.

Description is written by O.A. Girina

\\ \\
[14 Panoramas of Plosky_Tolbachik_Volcano|Geography/Asia/Russia/Pictures/Panoramas_of_Volcano_Plosky_Tolbachik]










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